Earthly Delights from the Garden of France: The Wines of the Loire: The Kingdom of Sauvignon Blanc: Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume and the Sauvignon Satellites.
The Wines of France: The Essential Guide for Savvy Shoppers. Tribute to Didier Dagueneau. Quick Links E-mail the author. No Females Need Apply. From until or 97 I wrote freelance pieces on a semi-regular basis for the Spectator. There were no women editors, columnists or full-time reporters. Gordon wanted to present me to Shanken not for the first time.
Richard Maby, an excellent producer of Tavel. The link to the Romorantin article is on the FrenchFeast page. Just a click away. January 23, Last Monday -- January 18, -- I attended a thought provoking wine tasting in Paris.
Please be advised that I no longer recommend the wines from this producer. These people are arrogant and have no respect for the law or common decency.
Please go to FrenchFeast for link to Azay-le-Rideau article. Link to latest article, a terrific food and wine pairing session in Chateauneuf-du-Pape: Will provide further information when available.
Backbreaking labor, metric tonnes of papers and cartons thrown out, spaces cleared. February 16, 23, The New Order News from the home front: I have finally recovered from the flu. This one will focus on a young grower in Vouvray. Remember to sign up for the Newsletter. And, praise be, jacqueline smith and breast cancer, quite a few deadlines keeping me busy.
Go to the French Feast page. In the right hand margin you should see the place where you can sign up for the newsletter. New posts continue under awards. Both awards on my mantel.
James Beard Foundation Award. My Zester Daily article on Pierre Seillan. Eric Nicolas, Artist-Vigneron Can wine be art? I urge you to taste here and ask yourself that question. Eric Nicolas is an artist-vigneron in the most profound sense. Nicolas, a native of Dieppe, started his adult life working for Total France as an electrical engineer before succumbing to the desire to make wine.
Land in the Coteaux du Loir was within his means and so he and his wife Christine bought a run-down farm in the area in Today they have 13 hectares of vines, on over fifty different parcels, with different expositions and soils types presenting multiple variations on the theme of flinty clay on limestone.
Many of the vines are old — over 50 — and new plantings are made from selections Nicolas has propagated from his own vines. As of all are farmed biodynamically; yields are extremely low; harvest is jacqueline smith and breast cancer hand. Indeed, it would be difficult to find wines more handcrafted than these. Each parcel is vinified separately though this represents an almost unthinkable amount of work and concentration; and vinification is, essentially, non-interventionist: Premices is a cuvee of Jasnieres that Nicolas launched in Intended to be his fruity, easy and early drinking Jasnieres, it comes from vines in the process of being converted to biodynamics.
Thetasted in earlywad a crystalline charmer. With 8 grams of residual sugar to balance the lively citrus zest notes and dee minerality, it was pure and fresh and easy to love. Next comes Les Rosiers, a selection of young vines from various parcels — young here meaning under 50 years old — fermented and aged in barriques on a four year rotation.
Thetasted in earlyopened with a nose recalling apple crumble. It was off-dry 7 grams residual sugar and had a light thread of co2. Dulcet yet decisive, the wine was lyrical, beautifully balanced, an equipoise of steel and honey. Tasted at the same time, thewith 16 grams of residual sugar, was so textured and so mineral you just want to sit down in front of it, chin in hands, and think about it.
Its attack was like glacial waters rushing over rocks, a riverbed of quinine jacqueline smith and breast cancer stone.
Achingly elegant, it was regal and tinged with flavors of lime and tisane. I was somewhat less enthusiastic jacqueline smith and breast cancer thewhich seemed a bit sweeter than the 7 grams residual sugar of theand hotter, its flavors more in the apple-apple cider range.
Elixir de Tuf is a very special cuvee, jacqueline smith and breast cancer, a liquoreux not made every year, jacqueline smith and breast cancer. It comes from the last trie of the harvest and the grapes must have a minimum potential alcohol of 20 degrees. Thejacqueline smith and breast cancer, with 9. Fascinating but not really for beginners, jacqueline smith and breast cancer.
Nicolas may make as many as five different cuvees of Coteaux du Loir blanc. The wine ferments in newish barrels and ages on its lees, in barrel, for at least a year. Simultaneously delicate and resilient as steel wire, thetasted inis nuanced and racy with a lipsmacking sur lie tingle and lovely lemon zest accents as well as flavors of wax and honey.
From mid-palate to the long finish, the wine sounds depths of slate and stone while the fruit floats above, light and lyrical. Beautifully balanced, it makes a superb aperitif and absolutely inspires culinary creativity as do the and which I tasted in early The first, distinctly off-dry, was creamy with an undertow of steel. The equally steely was strong and apple-scented.
Tasted inthe wine was a burnished gold with aromas of creamed corn, wax and quince, jacqueline smith and breast cancer. Dulcet rather than syrupy, it was delicate yet definitive, racy, subtle and extremely nuanced, with a long mineral-tisane finish. The truth of the earth is here.
The Vieilles Vignes Eparses bottling is a Coteaux du Loir from 50 to 80 year old vines on flinty clay soils. Yields are kept low, to wit: An elegant, subtle wine, both forceful and fine-boned. Thea demi-seec with 20 grams residual sugar and 14 degrees alcohol came across like terroir-driven cider when tasted in early By the spring of it had settled down, found its voice, with a texture as plush as a velvet jacqueline smith and breast cancer and flavors of citronelle fosamax and weak bones herbal tea surrounding a core of minerals.
Listen closely here too. This is a wine of discovery. The grapes ferment in open tanks and are punched down. Malolactic fermentation occurs in barrels where the jacqueline smith and breast cancer will age from a year to 18 months before being bottled unfiltered. Thetasted in springcame on with a burst of freshly ground white pepper which gave way to flavors of sweet spices and plum.
I had initially been bothered by some high acetone notes which disappeared with aeration. And not only did I not feel the The wine was that fascinating. Thewith 15 degrees alcohol, was rich and meaty lasix surgery and cataracts things being relative.
Thepeppery, jacqueline smith and breast cancer, spicy and mineral, had a pungency reminiscent of St Nectaire. Thetasted in early when it had not completed its malolactic and still had plenty of co2, seemed more in line with thepotentially every bit as lantus and patient assistance able.
It is an excellent jacqueline smith and breast cancer, a wine I always adore. The grapes ferment in open casks for a month with regular punching down.
The wine goes through malolactic and spends a year in barriques of 3 to 5 wines and is bottled unfiltered. The should have been immortalized in the Grape Variety Hall of Fame. I am convinced that thetasted in earlyjacqueline smith and breast cancer, will be every bit as good. Thetasted in latewhile not as dazzling as thedisplayed the Aunis black pepper along with tar and St, jacqueline smith and breast cancer.
Thealso tasted in latewas evolving nicely in every sense. The color was recalled autumn leaves, as did the aroma which also included dried herbs and hay. Fruit bomb lovers would hate this delicate wine with its smooth, fleeting flavors, their names just out of grasp, dried rose petals and, yes, black pepper. The wine is so sui generis. Love it or hate it.
Nicolas also makes a number of special bottlings depending on the vintage and his inspiration. They are always worth trying.